And that is the intake manifold, which features a resonance chamber to match the performance of the FSZE engine, which may make up for the loss of power in the higher rpms. There was a final piece to the JDM puzzle that I needed to experiment with on the dyno. From 3500 rpm to 5500- rpm I am making power and holding it in a decent range to redline… So with the US MP3 Ecu the car made 132hp and 137tq, but with a dying power band, that peaks at 3500-4000 rpm and falls down to 90hp at redline…which explains how and why the car drags on the straights.Īnd with the proper JDM ECU, the car makes 130hp and 135tq… but the powerband is much more useful and ideal. I was able to get back on the dyno and compare the two numbers. The JDM cars only run off a single o2 Sensor, so I plugged the secondary O2 sensor bung. I ran the speed sensor plug to the speed sensor on the trans…
Protege car make install#
I was lucky enough to be able to get in touch with a guy from Australia, that had access to the JDM wiring diagram, and combined the information with another local friend that was able to identify the proper pin to remove and install to plug the speed sensor in. I had a spare harness to pull the proper connector from and make a harness for the speed sensor. In order to get around that I needed to run a signal to the speed sensor in the trans. So being that the JDM harness was a ABS car, it used the ABS unit to monitor speed with the speed sensors on each wheel. The harness was in, and I just needed to plug in everything and crank it up. In order to use the FSZE ECU I will need to remove my lightweight pulley and swap the crank sprocket to the matching JDM sprocket on the left… The car that the harness came from was a ABS car, and mine was not, so it is excessively long with things I did not need. Here is the US harness shown up top, and the japanese harness below. So I removed the US harness to get ready to install the JDM harness… The harness and ECU was from a guy in Canada that had purchased from someone else, that extended it to fit in a LHD vehicle. The real reason for going to the dyno was because I was able to source a proper JDM harness and ECU to properly run the FSZE engine in my car. And with the JDM FSZE my car put down 132hp and 137tq on the dyno using the US engine harness and Mazda MP3 ECU.
With all that being said, I have the Sport 20 engine that is fond in the Japanese Familia Sport 20…Ībove, I have the dyno comparison of the US FSDE engine with bolt-ons that makes 113 hp and 102 tq. There was also a even more powerful version that came in the rare Mazdaspeed Familia (protege) with 180hp Naturally aspirated power.
But the engine had more aggressive cam and higher compression and was rated at 170hp without the use of a turbo. In Japan Mazda developed another version FSZE that came in the 323 SP20 (europe) and Famila Sport 20 in Japan that came in either a sedan or wagon and had a AWD option as well. There was also a turbocharged version of this engine that came in the Mazdaspeed Protege with 180hp. The 130hp version of the engine was used in the Protege 5, but with a simple ECU swap of the MP3 ECU it will makeup for the loss. The first performance model was introduced in the Mazda MP3, and it received a mild power increase from 130hp to 140hp, with ecu tuning. Over the years it evolved and found itself in the BJ Protege chassis in 1999 – 2003. My car in the US comes with a 2.0 FSDE engine, that was built in the mid 90s, first introduced in the Mazda 626, MX6, Probe. With the JDM engine installed last year, I had always been curious on what it actually makes in comparison to the US engine…
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